Loggerheads, England, United Kingdom
I’ve had a number of dilemmas in the planning of this trip. I guess the most pressing one with regards to trip planning is: ship my bike or buy one in Australia. Well not just Australia but the states too. Financially it made sense to sell my bike, KTM 1190 Adventure, and buy a new one. I had even researched which one to get. It would be the KTM (yes I love KTMs) 690 quest. Not your everyday motorcycle. Essentially it is the KTM 690 enduro R but with some modifications, extra fuel tanks, stronger suspension, specialised luggage etc… It seemed the perfect bike for what I wanted to do. Long range fuel tanks, light and manoeuvrable, great handling and extremely good write ups from global travellers. The big attraction is: as much as I love my current bike (and yes I do…), it is a little too heavy to really take off road into the wilds of the bush. I had to ask myself: how much of the bush do I want to explore? After all, there is nothing there apart from Uluru (Ayres rock) and Alice Springs (the geographical centre of Australia). Having looked at the logistics of riding to Uluru and Alice Springs which is typically five days, I decided that I didn’t want to carry five days worth of fuel, food and water, but more importantly I didn’t want to wild camp with snakes, spiders and Dingos… So I’ll let the train take the strain (name the advert) from whatever city/town I decide to travel from.
So having decided not to go into the bush too much and my bike can handle some off road, well I can handle some off road on my bike, I have decided to ship my current bike. This then led me into researching the legalities, costs and logistics of shipping a motorcycle to Australia and then onto the USA.
I had met with motorcycle shippers when I was preparing for my first big trip so I had a decent starting point. I met a guy called Roddy at the ‘Touratech travel expo’ last year. I e mailed Roddy and he put me in touch with a company called Bikenut based in Australia. They e mailed me to open up dialogue and through an exchange of e mails we arranged to ship my bike to Sydney in December and then from Sydney to LA the following May. Total cost, circa £1800.
When shipping a car or motorcycle abroad many countries require you to hold an import/export licence called a Carnet du Passage. Australia unfortunately is one of these. The Carnet can be obtained from the RAC here in the UK. The cost is dependant on the value of your vehicle and the country you are shipping to, in my case it was £2150 with £1250 refundable on my leaving Australia. I resented paying for this but there was really no way around it.
You can see the essence of my dilemma now, the cost of shipping my bike versus selling and buying. I’ve grown used to my bike, I can do many minor repairs and I like the idea of traveling around the world on my current, trustee companion. Sad to say but I’ve grown really fond of my bike even though I know it is an inanimate object. So I solved my dilemma not though objectivity but more by emotion. After all, emotion will beat logic every time.
The next dilemma was: shall I rent my house out or not? Financially it made absolute sense to rent my house. I contacted an estate agent and they informed me of what was involved , I had rented a couple of houses out in the past when I had to move for my job so there were no surprises in what was said. The rental was £1250 pcm which would come in very handy whilst I was away. The problem is, I love my house. It is the house of my dreams and I have put so much care and attention, dare I say it, love, into getting it into the state it is (apart from the hole in the kitchen ceiling Bill) that I couldn’t bear the thought of strangers ruining what I have lovingly built. In the end I decided to not rent my house. That left me with a financial hole. I can’t afford to travel, eat and stay in places without working. To help with this I bought some lightweight camping gear so I can live as economically as possible while I’m buzzing around Australia and the USA. Ashleigh also suggested that we work our way around Australia. Work, moi? I should coco. I haven’t done that since I left the Fire Service! Actually, working in a bar sounds really appealing, especially if Ash and I are working together. I think it might be a lot of fun. After all, I won’t need to work all the time just some of it. How hard can it be??
So having decided not to rent out my home, wild camping and working it is then. For some of the time anyway.
The final dilemma concerns my blog. To allow comments or not? This was actually the hardest one and I spent the most time debating it with myself. I’ve been on Facebook and twitter for a while now and I would describe my use of social media along the lines of ‘voyeurism’. I don’t really post anything but I like to look and observe others as I do in life. I guess as in life, I do my own thing and don’t feel the need to conform or do what others do or think I should do. Some of the comments I read make me laugh out loud although I would never post such comments myself, some comments are genius and I wish I thought of them but some make me cringe and fill me with the need to disassociate myself from the poster (is that the correct term or should we say originator).
It appears to me that there is some form of implied convention that makes people comment on or like posts, almost regardless of the content, it’s more about some form of social connectivity. I don’t feel that. Indeed there are post from people that are ill thought out and make me want to unfriend them as I don’t really want to be associated with such comments/posts. Furthermore there is a lot of wasted time on so called campaigns, either political or social, which have no outcomes whatsoever apart from people venting there spleens (as I guess I’m doing now).
It feels like we are becoming a society that abuses the freedom of speech. It was Descartes that once said ‘I may not believe in what you say but I will fight for the death for your right to say it’. I do applaud that point of view and can align myself to it somewhat. But, and there is a big BUT. Surely we should think about what we say and what the intended outcome is. Everything we say, everything we do and every decision we make has an outcome. Actually every decision we don’t make equally has an outcome. I believe what we say, do, believe in, support and decide says a lot about the kind of person we are.
Some of you reading this will want to argue with me or let me know the areas of my failing to ‘get it’. I don’t like glib comments, I don’t subscribe to anything that makes one person look good or funny at the expense of another. I may well be over sensitive and overthink stuff but that is how I am. Another related point is I don’t want people to feel pressured to comment publicly on what I write or do, so the best way I can resolve all of this is to invite people to contact me directly via kiff@no1truth.com. I will post my e mail address regularly to remind you all. I like the personal closeness this supports as I will value personal observations, comments, advice and contact in general. I have disabled the ability to comment on my post but I welcome you to e mail me directly as I believe this will be a much better way and a far more personal way to keep in touch. In the unintended incidence that I’ve offended you with my view on social media feel free to comment on this post…
I want to end on the most important aspect of this trip. I get to spend Christmas, New Year and time in general with Ashleigh. It’s great that she is having her own adventures and I have to say how incredibly brave she is traveling around a different continent on her own. But in truth I have missed her terribly. it is said as we get older it becomes apparent that parents need their children more that our children need us. From personal experience I find this to be an absolute truth.
Christmas on Bondi Beach
I’ve not blogged sooner for a couple of reasons; I wanted to cover Christmas and New Year in Sydney but mainly It has been kind of busy here what with one thing and another.
I mentioned before about arriving in Sydney, this wonderful city really doesn’t disappoint. The views are breathtaking and the weather was glorious for the first few days, sunny, hot and definitely sun lotion weather. Ashleigh advised me to wear plenty of sun lotion and drink plenty of water which I dutifully did. With the weather so warm it really didn’t feel Christmassy at all. Sure there were some trees and decorations scattered around and the shops use this time as a marketing Nirvana to encourage as much spending as possible (that was probably the most common theme to the UK).
On walking around the central business district (CBD) I came across the odd five star hotel with fantastic decorations and huge trees, they really went to town on helping their guests get into the Christmas feel. Compared to London Sydney isn’t very busy and generally has a laid back feel. The main shopping ares still got very busy and only one occasion did I feel it was similar to the main UK cities with regards to crowds. Crowds being crowds, the best and worst of humanity is too readily demonstrated. Some finding giving and helping the main part of this season and some treading over others to get what they want. Still, Christmas day is celebrated similar to many other Christian nations, some celebrate the religious origins and some simply enjoy the giving of gifts and getting together with friends and family.
Over the preceding days Christmas day I had met a few of Ashleigh’s friends in Australia, I can’t say Australian friends as most of them were traveling like Ashleigh. Most were nice, one or two were a little too crazy for me so I made a mental note to not spend too much time with those ones.
On Christmas eve we were invited to a riverboat thingy, I’m actually not sure what to call it, I guess party would be the closest description. When we turned up there were hundreds of 16-18 year olds in fancy dress and full party spirit. I was almost definitely older than most of their parents and felt like telling some of them to be careful, don’t drink too much, pick that up, mind your language… I was so relieved when Ashleigh said that she felt old amongst this crowd and would prefer to go for a meal just us two. We went to a lovely Indian restaurant which actually had karaoke in the basement, unfortunately the karaoke wasn’t on that night, I say unfortunately, probably luckily for Ashleigh. The last time we went out together and happened across a karaoke bar was when we were in Paris about 10 years ago. Much to Ashleigh’s embarrassment I got up to perform my Beatles repertoire, I know that the crowd loved it as they were chanting for me to remove my clothes ‘get em off, get em off’, I love it when my audience appreciates my raw talent. Mind you Ashleigh can karaoke with the best of them these days.
The meal was lovely, they don’t do really spicy here in Sydney (or so I thought, another story for later) so I had a Vindaloo which was equivalent to a Madras back home. We had a lovely evening and after the meal headed off home (well I went home).
I had heard tales of Christmas on the beach by a BarBQ ‘put another shrimp on the barbie’, so Ashleigh had arranged for us to go to what is probably the most famous beach in Australia, Bondi Beach. Actually, one of the most famous beaches in the world.
I had arranged to get to Ashleigh at around 10am where we would meet some of her other friends and have a couple of drinks before heading to Bondi. It was sunny and warm on Christmas day, perfect for the beach. At Ashleigh’s the Christmas tunes were on and we had a beer and all wished each other Merry Christmas then sat chatting to each other, this was particularly good for me being the ’new kid in town’. What struck me though was how laid back Christmas day was here, chilling and chatting. Don’t get me wrong chilling and chatting is great, I really enjoy it and would class it as an excellent social occasion whenever it occurs. But it didn’t feel Christmassy. I had some wonderful advice which was to enjoy an Australian Christmas and all its differences, so I was determined to do just this.
When we got to the beach it was busy, I mean really busy. There were all sorts of activities going on, people playing volleyball to such a high standard they must be knocking on the door to being professional beach volleyball players; people juggling, people perfecting dance routines, loads of surfers, some perfecting their tans to go with their perfect bodies, families just playing and of course drunken chanting Brits making an arse off themselves and embarrassing the majority of the UK population.
There weren’t any barbies though. We found a spot and as I felt too self conscious to take my shirt off and sunbathe so I went to walk around Bondi, I was so white, possibly more of strain on the eyes than the sun. Bondi has a beachy/hippy feel which I found to be mixed with a peaceful chilled vibe and the traditional seaside shops selling crap. There were loads of restaurants open most filled with Brits getting more drunk and more loud. What is it with us lot? Why do we have no social skills when it comes to going abroad? It’s as if as soon as the plane lands on foreign soil we have our brains removed and marshmallows put in their place.
I eventually wound my way back to Ashleigh and her friends and sat down to chat. I put some sun lotion on but it was too late I had sunburnt my right knee. It was exposed earlier in the day when chatting on the balcony of Ashleigh’s place. It was quite a long day all in all, different but enjoyable all the same.
Between Christmas and New year was an interesting time. Interesting in that Ashleigh and I met up with friends for the UK. Garry and Paula, Jan, Caroline and Luke.
Garry and Paula had just finished a cruise of New Zealand which ended in Sydney, they arranged to stop over for a couple of days sight seeing and catching up. It was great to see them albeit a little bizarre catching up with friends here who only live 45 minutes from me back in the UK.
Jan, Caroline and Luke were visiting friends here and in Melbourne. We don’t get to see these guys very often and it was great to catch up. Thanks for the Champagne in the room guys x.
At home back in the UK I feel that Christmas is the big occasion of the festive season with New Years being a little too hyped up and ends up being not all that. I prefer to watch Jools Holland’s Hootenanny or to quietly celebrate with loved ones these days. Over here it is the opposite, or at least that’s the experience I had. The firework display of Sydney harbour is legendary and people come from all over the world to witness this amazing spectacle.
Some months ago I was advised to secure a place early as it gets really busy, shoulder to shoulder busy with all the good spots charging a fortune and selling out quickly. Sydney has a population of
4.3 million (Australia’s population being 23.3 million) and as such is Australia’s largest city, Melbourne is closest to it with a population of 4.1 million. For New Years Eve the was an expected 1 million extra people descending on the city to watch and join in the celebrations. Ashleigh was in charge of organising our New Year’s Eve evening and juggled a number of option before going for an evening with friends at Strickland House, Vaucluse. It’ll be easier if I use the website description of Strickland house, I’ve referenced the website at the end of the paragraph below should you want more information.
The Strickland House site on Sydney Harbour, Vaucluse, is of exceptional historical significance as a remarkably intact 1850s villa with a largely unaltered landscape setting. The site demonstrates an important component of the early settlement patterns in the district, being part of an early land grant (originally made to William Charles Wentworth) that has not been subdivided. The grounds of the Strickland House site constitute one of the finest public harbourside parks in Sydney, affording extensive and unparalleled views of Sydney Harbour. The landscape setting, and particularly the borrowed landscape of the Sydney Harbour National Park lands, including wharf remnants and the waters of Sydney Harbour, are integral to the property and its interpretation as a significant cultural landscape within the visual and spatial structure of Sydney Harbour. The setting that has been maintained is important as a historical scheme and to the contemporary community who widely appreciate it for its recreational value. The current appreciation of the site is reflected in the site being declared an urban park in 1994. (http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/heritageapp/ViewHeritageItemDetails.aspx?ID=5045502).
The organisers only sell one thousand tickets and as the grounds are very large it has a nice picnic feel about the evening not to mention spectacular views across the Sydney harbour. We settled down, got chatting, met new friends and the then watched first firework display at 9pm. This was spectacular and I was wondering just how good the main event was going to be. Well, the main event was jaw dropping, I don’t think anyone spoke during the midnight fireworks, such was the mesmerising experience of a $10 million firework display. I think the display lasted for around 20 minutes or so and once over people started heading off. The roads were jammed packed as you would expect so it took a good couple of hours to get home. Getting home was not without incident but that will be one of those stories shared over a drink, not here.
It must be noted that not all Australians enjoy the famous Sydney harbour fireworks and feel that their government could better spend the money sorting out problems that require attention and funding.
All in all I feel that New Year’s Eve is the is deal over here, much more so than Christmas. It was a very different but very enjoyable festive season. The best part of which is that I’m spending so much time with my 26 year old daughter. Not many parents get this opportunity so I’m milking it for all it’s worth.
Police and Thieves
“Police and thieves, ahh yeah, fighting the nation with their, guns and ammunition”, (Junior Murvin).
On the face of it Sydney can seem very idyllic. It is a very beautiful, cosmopolitan city with a very good, supportive travel infrastructure. The weather is generally excellent, I say generally because we had a week of rain here but that is over now and as I write it is sunny and 33 degrees C. The people seem very friendly, I have never seen so many beautiful people. There is definitely a push towards health and fitness here and as a result there are plenty of fast food outlets that concentrate on healthy foods. There are a lot of travellers and tourists here, as in most major cities of the world, and I assume that the layers of governmental power, support, advice and control are suitably structured and educated to support the impact of the tourist/travel industry on the great city of Sydney. After all, 53% of tourists share their travel experiences online.
Tourism is a significant industry for Australia and makes up 3% of the economy, It generates $102 billion (Australian Bureau of Statistics) in visitor expenditure, directly employs around half a million Australians and is Australia’s number one services export. It helps fund critical infrastructure like airports, roads and hotels, and plays an important role in the economic development of regional Australia, with 46 cents of every tourist dollar spent in regional Australia (Tourism Research Australia). Every dollar spent on tourism generates 87 cents in other parts of the economy, which is a higher multiplier than those achieved for mining, agriculture and financial services (Tourism Research Australia). Recognising the important role of tourism, the Australian Government has identified tourism as one of five National Investment Priorities, with a particular emphasis on leveraging international demand and investment to help further grow our industry (<a href=”http://www.tourism.australia.com/documents/corporate/Tourism-Australia-Annual-Report-2013-2014.pdf” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>http://www.tourism.australia.com/documents/corporate/Tourism-Australia-Annual-Report-2013-2014.pdf</a>).
As you know I decided to ship my motorcycle to Australia and travel on it, I covered the reasons in an earlier blog (Dilemma). The shipping company I used was ‘Bikes Abroad’, I had a lot of support from them as I was new to this process, they guided me step by step through the process. the estimated date of arrival for my bike was originally 20th December 2015, I was arriving on the 18th so this seemed perfect. I was informed after shipping had started that the arrival date had switched to the 28th December, this was a slight annoyance but nothing too major. The bike did indeed arrive on or around the 28th December and was held in quarantine over the holiday period for inspection and clearance.
The rules for temporarily importing a motorcycle into Australia are very strict and worth looking up and following to the letter, which I did. One of the quarantine issues is the requirement for a thorough inspection of the bike to ensure its cleanliness and that it is free from transferring any unwanted bugs etc into Australia. I therefore spent almost a whole day cleaning every inch of my bike, ensuring that I removed the seat, battery, tool roll and got into the hard to reach areas of the engine. It was spotless when It was picked up and would have passed any ‘white glove’ inspection.
I was told on 4th January that my bike had failed quarantine and would require a steam clean, this delayed the release for another 48 hours and cost an extra $225. I eventually received notification that I could pick up my bike on 7th January 2016. Picking the bike up was pretty straight forward, I located the depot on the maps app on my phone and the best public transport route to it. As I said earlier Sydney’s travel infrastructure is very good and it was easy to get to the depot. Once there the people at the depot were really helpful and I couldn’t have been better attended to. I was a little suspicious that my bike had not been steam cleaned as it was dusty in places from the long journey. I took photos of this but was informed that although my bike was so clean, it had picked up a worm during transit and the engine compartment was stream cleaned as a result. The learning for me on this point is that I would still clean my bike but factor in steam cleaning as part of the overall costs of import.
I was told sometime ago by my good friend Dean that ‘if my bike arrives on time and in the condition it left in, I would be very happy, but that is the minimum I should expect. It was late but in the same condition that it left in and I guess my feeling is that of relief.
It isn’t cheap to ship a bike over to Australia from the UK. To import a vehicle the importer is required to obtain a Carnet du Passage, the cost of which is calculated on the value of the vehicle, in my case this was £2250, £1250 is refundable on leaving Australia.. The cost of importing was £752 and steam cleaning was an extra £112. Totalling £3114 until my bike leaves Australia which it will reduce to £1864 ($3728 AUD).
I would also need to purchase Australian motorcycle insurance which I did do. The advice was to arrange cover for a minimum of third party, fire and theft cover but I decided to get fully comprehensive cover.
With all this done I was now ready to enjoy riding my bike in Australia, after all, good roads, left hand driving, less traffic than back in the UK and a great traffic infrastructure. What could possible go wrong? I’ll tell you.
Now, I pride myself on the high level of ability of motorcycle riding I have. After all I have ridden on and off since I was about 13 years old and have taken advanced instruction in motorcycles, cars and lorries (fire engines in particular). I have driven and ridden in all conditions and driven both Fire Engines and cars to many emergency incidents. In the past year I have ridden in 9 different countries, covering over 22,000 KM without incident. I was riding my bike through the city late one Saturday evening, I was observing the speed limit and was happily plodding through the city in the middle of three lanes when I noticed a police car change lanes and follow me. The police car followed me for just over a mile before turning on the lights in the buzz bar and indicating that I pull over. I looked for a suitable and safe spot and dutifully pulled over, dismounted my bike, turned it off and took off my crash helmet.
A police sergeant of around 35 years old got out of the vehicle and approached. I knew I hadn’t committed any traffic offence so was a little surprised by the slightly hostile approach taken by the police sergeant in which this exchange was about to unfold. He informed me that I was riding an unregistered vehicle and this was actually an offence. I responded that vehicles that are registered overseas and only in New South Wales (NSW) temporarily do not require NSW registration, providing all the plates and labels required by the overseas registration authority are displayed, as mine are.
This seemed like red rag to a bull to him and his attitude took a very superior verging on aggressive tone. He informed me that I was wrong and that I did indeed require NSW restoration as anyone driving an imported vehicle in the UK would (this point is incorrect). I tried to reason with him but his attitude became more overbearing. He then took my driving license to his car and performed some background checks on me. Whilst he did this I frantically searched my phone for the website which outlined the rules for driving an imported vehicle in NSW. On his return I showed him a government website but he remained unconvinced and pointed at me, raising his voice saying “I’m telling you the law”, realising that this exchange was not going well I ensured I remained calm, polite and non threatening. He then breathalysed me
which came out clean.
I tried to explain the rules of importing and driving a vehicle here but this annoyed him further and he threatened to slap a $625 ticket on me. He told me that he wished to act leniently and that I was to park up on the side of the road off the freeway, leave my bike there until it was registered, unless I could find someone with a trailer to tow it back for me. I asked if my bike would be safe there and was greeted with a shrug of the shoulders and a reply “it’s as safe there as anywhere”, I wasn’t going to get anywhere, except perhaps arrested, by pressing my point so I obeyed, parked up and took a taxi home, costing me around $40.
The journey home in the taxi was fitful, I was annoyed that I had missed something so fundamental and had made such a stupid mistake. I got home around 1am, took off my motorcycling gear, cleaned up and went to bed, annoyed. I did’t sleep well and awoke many times. I got up in the morning and looked into registering my motorcycle and all the documentation I would require. I then printed copies of what I would require so it would be a straight forward process on Monday morning when I visited the Registration and Marine Service (RMS) as told to by the police sergeant.
When I was researching what documents I needed I was prompted to this site <a href=”http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/index.html” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/index.html</a> which states that;
Visiting overseas vehicles
Vehicles that are registered overseas and only in NSW temporarily do not require NSW registration, as long as all plates and labels required by the overseas registration authority are displayed. Roads and Maritime also recommends that the overseas Certificate of Registration is carried when using the vehicle.
These vehicles do not require Compulsory Third Party (CTP) insurance (green slip). In the case of an accident, a NSW third party personal injury claim involving a visiting overseas vehicle is made against the Nominal Defendant Scheme, administered by the <a href=”http://www.sira.nsw.gov.au/” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>State Inurance Regulatory Authority</a> (<a href=”http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/index.html” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/index.html</a>).
I phoned up the police helpline for clarification of this point as there seemed to be a misunderstanding between the police and the regulatory authority, RMS. I eventually got through to highway patrol and explained the situation to the call handler. They were not able to provide me with clarification on this issue and advised me to visit the offices of the regulatory authority, RMS, on Monday morning and if I didn’t require to get registration then I should ask for a permit that I could show police officers in the event I was to be pulled over again. It didn’t seem feasible that a permit that stated I was doing what I was legally required to do would actually exist, I asked if it did but the call handler didn’t know as was apologetic that she was not more helpful.
Today is Monday (at the time of writing) and I have returned from the local offices of RMS. I am not required to register my vehicle in order to ride it in NSW. The police sergeant who was ‘telling me the law’ was incorrect of his interpretation of the rules of driving a temporarily imported vehicle.
If every country required all visiting vehicles to be registered and thus display local registration plates (number plates) then there would be no foreign plates ever seen. This does not happen anywhere in the world, why then would Australia be so very different? Truth is it isn’t and providing you abide by the strict rules of importing, inspection and obey the laws of the road you should be okay. Now, this might just be an isolated incident and an exposure to and overzealous police sergeant, if it is and there is no further issues then I can write this down to experience and sharing this via blogging and travel sites might prove useful to others. If not and I continue to be pulled over then I would advise others not to bother to temporarily import a vehicle to Australia.
Perhaps Sydney is not as good as I thought?
I hadn’t really been outside of Sydney since I arrived here due to one thing and another but mainly because of a couple of things. Sydney has a lot going on so there is plenty to be getting on with and it is either really hot or raining. I have got into quite a healthy lifestyle by meeting Ashleigh at work, practising Pilates and eating quite healthily. Ashleigh works at a Yoga and Pilates studio called Body, Mind, Life. They are a small company that run a handful of studios in the Sydney area concentrating on Yoga and reformer Pilates (www.bodymindlife.com). Ashleigh is concentrating on her Yoga and achieving some amazing results. I am concentrating on Pilates and feel the benefits from doing so. We tend to eat together whenever possible and try to eat as pretty healthily but we are not fanatical about that. I don’t drink every day which also helps control the weight and battle of the bulge.
I don’t drink every day, that sounds a pretty pathetic statement, but on a hot day in the city and bearing in mind I don’t need to work or anything, an ice cold beer can seem pretty idyllic at times. I try to have only two or three days per week consuming alcohol and even on these days it’s probably only three small beers or equivalent. This pattern, of training regularly, eating fairly well and drinking seldomly has had a nice effect and I’ve shed a few ugly pounds in the process. There are those of you reading this that are far more dedicated than I am with diet, training or controlling alcohol consumption but I don’t feel ready to increase my dedication into any or all of these just yet. I have been more dedicated to exercise in the past and probably will do again once I am better but for now I feel happy with the balance I have struck.
So my general pattern is waking up, planning when and where I will go for the day, attending a Pilates class, visiting one of the many fantastic beaches Sydney has to offer and hanging out with Ashleigh. In between these very stressful and demanding moments I take in various parts of the city and just do ‘stuff’.
The two places I really wanted to visit whilst in Sydney were the Blue Mountains and the Hunter Valley. I’ll talk about the Hunter Valley later on but on Sunday night I was starting to plan where I would go on my bike and decided to head north of the city and visit Lake Macquarie. On Monday I loaded Lake Macquarie into my sat nav and was about to head off when I had a better idea. I would head to the Blue Mountains instead. I set off for the Blue Mountains which is some 90 minutes ride from me in 30 degrees C temperatures. When I ride my motorcycle I always wear a full complement of protective clothing unlike most riders around here who wear shorts and tee shirts. Crash Helmets are obligatory here in Australia.
The ride was uneventful for the first 70 minutes with a lot of it being on the M4 motorway. After a while the motorway turns into A32 and it ascends towards the Blue Mountain national park through successive long sweeping bends winding through beautiful scenic towns and cities which are an absolute pleasure to ride through. I was expecting the Blue Mountains to be like a fairly small mountain range with a few lookout areas and trails scattered around. How wrong was I? I should have realised, as all of the UNESCO world heritage sites I have been fortunate enough to visit have been spectacular and breathtaking. Here was not going to be an exception. The next three paragraphs are taken from the Lonely Planet website to fill you in a little, you’ll notice the decline in spelling, grammar and punctuation return after as I continue…
The Blue Mountains is a rugged region west of Sydney in Australia’s New South Wales. Known for dramatic scenery, it encompasses steep cliffs, eucalyptus forests, waterfalls and villages dotted with guesthouses, galleries and gardens. Katoomba, a major town in the area, borders Blue Mountains National Park and its bushwalking trails. Echo Point affords views of the storied Three Sisters sandstone rock formation.
A region with more than its fair share of natural beauty, the Blue Mountains was an obvious choice for Unesco World Heritage status. The slate-coloured haze that gives the mountains their name comes from a fine mist of oil exuded by the huge eucalypts that form a dense canopy across the landscape of deep, often inaccessible valleys and chiselled sandstone outcrops.
The foothills begin 65km inland from Sydney, rising to an 1100m-high sandstone plateau riddled with valleys eroded into the stone over thousands of years. There are eight connected conservation areas in the region, including the Blue Mountains National Park, which has some truly fantastic scenery, excellent bushwalks (hikes), Aboriginal engravings and all the canyons and cliffs you could ask for. Wollemi National Park, north of the Bells Line of Rd, is NSW’s largest forested wilderness area, stretching all the way to the Hunter Valley. (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/australia/new-south-wales/blue-mountains#ixzz3xaJTkBPv).
And I’m back in the room… The first thing that struck me was the beauty of the surrounds as I rode from town to town and often taking small detours to look through some very picturesque towns and villages. My unplanned and unintended route took me through the places that are situated along the A32 until I got to Wentworth Falls. This seemed so lovely I thought I would stop for a coffee and ride around it. From there I rode along a minor mountain road to Leura passing the Everglades Gardens along the way. I then rode up Cliff Drive to a place called Echo Point. Echo point was where I knew I would see what some regard as the highlight of the Blue Mountains, the Three Sisters. I dismounted, had lunch and a coffee and wondered around Echo Point taking in the vast splendour that this well planned, well built and well resourced observation point afforded.
Apart from the vastness and breathtaking beauty of this part of our unspoilt natural world the thing that struck me was why they are called the Blue Mountains. The eucalyptus mist really does make the area take on a strange, almost ghostly slate blue hue. I spent quite a while just looking out into the blue vastness in a state of total awe. I took quite a few photographs, trying to catch the Three Sisters at their best. After what seemed like 20 minutes but was in fact a couple of hours I headed off to look around Katoomba and then rode further into the national park. By good fortune I happened across a signpost fora place called Evans Lookout, this sounded interesting so I headed for that and passed a fine looking golf course. After a couple of miles the road turned into trail which was a little bit of fun to ride along. I parked up and walked a few metres from the car park along a trail to some more spectacular views of a different area of this vast national park.
I got talking to a really nice guy from the Netherlands who was holidaying with his wife. They both ride motorcycles back home and we got talking about bikes and stuff. Hi, if you’re reading this.
On leaving Evans Lookout I headed for Mellow Bath and then home. The ride back along the A32 was as much fun as the ride out but the ride along the M4 was equally as boring only hotter. The temperature was a lot cooler in the national park due to the altitude but as I dropped height it got very warm, very quickly. On my way back into the city, I pulled up alongside a guy on a Harley (very popular out here) at some traffic lights, wearing shorts and a tee shirt, and he asked me if I was hot, with the sweat running down my already soaked body I smiled as replied ‘no, why do you ask? we both laughed and rode together for a few miles before our routes took us off in different directions.
It was great to get out on the bike, the one thing about being based in a city with great infrastructure is you really don’t need to use other forms of transport and couple that with the searing heat on the dry, sunny days, it isn’t pleasant riding a bike in full protective clothing. Of course I could dress down but I really don’t feel comfortable doing that. I only need to come off once without the correct protection and the damage would be both sever and lifelong. I’ll stick to melting. I do find that on hot sunny days I really don’t want to ride my motorcycle.
The Blue Mountains is an amazing place and easy to see why it is a UNESCO world heritage site. I would love to return and spend a few days there walking some of the trails and spending more time in such beautiful surroundings. I think two or three days would be ideal depending on you level of preferred activity. It is certainly a ‘must visit’ place which is easy to get to from Sydney by road, bus or rail.
All the world’s a stage, all the men and women merely players; They have their exits and their entrances, one man in his time plays many parts, (William Shakespeare, 1564 – 1616).
This holiday, adventure, break, trip or whatever people want to call it has definitely not gone to plan. When I say; ‘gone to plan’ I do admit that I planned it very loosely. Getting over here, sorting out accommodation and shipping my bike was planned well and apart from the bike being late, it all worked out according to plan. I had thought I would ride up the East coast of Australia, taking in the states of; New South Wales (NSW), Queensland (QLD) and The Northern Territories (NT). Let me clear up why I am no longer doing that and sticking to my original plan.
I have had an injury for a few years now and it has had a detrimental impact on my mobility. It’s nothing major but it is debilitating, it has certainly stopped me getting better at golf, well, that’s my excuse for that anyway.
Before I left the UK I tried to get my back sorted out but it transpires I need a small operation called a microdiscectomy. In a microdiscectomy, a small portion of the bone over the nerve root and some of the disc material from under the nerve root is removed to relieve pressure on the nerve and provide room for the nerve to heal. The impact of the compression of the nerve on the bone means that my lower back, specifically the lumbar area of L4 and L5 is in constant discomfort and the sciatic nerve is causing me further discomfort and mainly makes it difficult or painful to walk.
I received a date for the operation in February, bang smack in the middle of my trip, 15th of February to be exact. This gave me a choice; I could defer the operation until I returned home or I could return home and have the operation. This choice was really easy for me, I wanted to have the operation and bring an end to the pain and discomfort I have been in for the past few years. Over the past few months I have been on prescription medicine, Cocodamol and Gabapentyn. The Cocodamol controls most of the pain and I only use it at night to help me sleep and the Gabapentyn blocks the messages from the affected nerve to the pain. Although Gabapentyn is not a pain killer it does was the pain significantly. The problem with these medicines is that both make me feel drowsy. Actually, the Gabapentyn makes me feel spaced out and numbs more than the back/sciatic pain. Neither control the pain completely.
I know being spaced out can be good on occasion (should I admit that?), but the idea of pumping my body with drugs fills me with dread. I constantly worry that I am storing up more damaging issues for later in life. Some people unfortunately have to live on these drugs to achieve any form of quality of life. I feel for them. The medical staff I saw originally told me that I have to learn to live with this pain and learn to manage it through a combination of knowledge, exercise and drugs. I believe that to be incredibly poor advice (they clearly have never had this issue) and can’t help wonder why such an incomplete and short sighted treatment is being proposed. It surely can’t be about the budget as a life of drug taking, regular doctors/hospital appointments, and probably internal issues later in life from taking drugs for so long must add up to more than the cost of a forty minute operation.
Anyway, back to the operation dates and the impact on this trip. I booked a flight back to the UK and planned to spend as little time as possible in the UK, just enough to have the operation and recover a little. The spanner in the works came after I had booked my flights back, I received a pre operation assessment for late January. I hadn’t factored this in my flight plans and everything was starting to get too complicated. I might have raised my levels of concerns but the drugs prevented that and it became obvious that my idea of slipping back to the UK for the minimum amount of time wasn’t going to work. Enter my roomy. Sue is renting my house and we refer to each other as ‘roomy’.
Sue got in touch with the right people at the hospital and rearranged my pre operation assessment for the 15th February and moved my operation to the 22nd February. She also sought advice regarding recovery times and the impact of long haul flights. She has been brilliant and at the time she wasn’t well herself, I’ll buy her a stick of rock to say thanks! She is an Arsenal supporter after all.
I rearranged my return flight to take into account an appropriate recovery time in accordance with my holiday insurance conditions. This means that I will fly back to the UK on 11th February and return to Australia on 5th April. That is a huge lump out of my planned trip and means to the idea of traveling up the East coast was not at all possible. This is further reinforced by a condition of my Carnet du Passages (temporary import license), which states that my bike cannot be in Australia if I am not. So I have to ship my bike back less than a month of it being here. Bummer.
This brings me neatly onto the issue of shipping a vehicle to Australia temporarily. It is costly but more importantly each state has different laws regarding the riding/driving of a temporarily imported vehicle. The websites back home are not accurate enough so I plan to update them with information on my return. Truth is, I wish I hadn’t shipped my bike out here, they say hindsight is 20/20 vision. My advice for anyone thinking of temporarily shipping a vehicle under the cover of a Carnet du Passages is DON’T BOTHER!
All this will obviously have a massive impact on my planned trip too the USA. Not the route 66 trip, that’s still going ahead as planned with Andy and I can’t express how much I am looking forward to that ‘trip of a lifetime’ on a Harley Davidson, soft tail classic. Pikey and me cruising the states on Harleys, I’m sure there will be plenty to write about during that.
The rest of the trip however will need to change as I’m no longer going to shipping my bike to the USA. I think a combination of trains, busses and hire vehicles will have to work. So far only route 66, Los Angeles and Las Vegas have been planned. I definitely want to do route 1, which is up the West coast of the states, I’ll probably hire a Harley for that now.
There is a saying in the military, ‘no plan survives first contact’. I love that saying and it seems so true. Hey, I’m nothing if not flexible. I have made the most of the situation I have found myself in, or indeed, created for myself. I have joined the yoga and pilates club that Ashleigh works for. I have tried yoga, twice, and didn’t like the impact on my back so I haven’t pursued that avenue any further. I have been going to pilates for an hour almost every day, I think I have only missed four days since being here. This is having a great impact on my core stability and I have to say, doing a pilates class is like taking a pain killer. There is a quote from Joseph Pilates on one of the studio walls, “In 10 sessions you’ll feel the difference, in 20 you’ll see the difference, in 30 you’ll have a new body”. Look out people here comes the new me… Actually, the words are great and inspirational and all that, I honestly do feel the difference but it isn’t like the old bull worker adverts. I won’t be kicking sand in any beefy guy’s face on Bondi beach in a hurry.
Sydney is blessed with a plethora of coves, beaches and harbours and each seems to have its own personality. The most famous being Bondi beach, or simply Bondi as it is often referred to. It seems a tragedy to come to Sydney and not visit Bondi and the name alone probably attracts millions of visitors throughout the summer. In my opinion Bondi is a lovely, lively place with a charm all of its own, street art features on the walkway to the beach, skate boarders of all ages, honing their skills in the purpose built skate park, beach volleyball players, sunbathers with bodies of film stars and of course surfers. But this isn’t about Bondi, it’s about quite possibly the most beautiful bay in the world. Watsons Bay.
Before I left for Australia I spoke to many people that had already been to and around Australia, all of them were kind enough to share their experiences with me, each of them recommending somewhere different as a ‘must goto’ place. Only one person mentioned Watsons Bay, they told me to visit a seafood restaurant there called Doyle’s. I had originally planned to meet Garry and Paula there and play a trick on Ashleigh as she didn’t know they would be in Australia for a few days whilst we were there. As I looked where Watsons Bay is situated it seemed a bit far out so we agreed to meet somewhere closer to Sydney CBD.
I had been planning to take a harbour cruise, this is approximately four hours long and it takes you around most of the harbours and coves but a lovely local to Sydney told me not to bother with the cruise, I would see just as much if I caught the ferry to various places scattered around the seafront of the vast city of Sydney, and it would be far cheaper as I could access the ferries via my Opal card. The Opal card is a pre pay card that allows you to access the public transport network in and around Sydney. It works similar to the Oyster card back in London but the Opal card is more versatile. I had already been to Manly beach via ferry and it was great, actually I would recommend Manly beach as a place to visit. It has a completely different character to Bondi but then, all the beaches have their own character. I guess that Manly beach would be considered as one of the big ones in ‘beach popularity’ terms.
Ashleigh was working this particular morning, as she seems to be most mornings, but had a break from 12-4 and then she was back at work for a later shift. Her working pattern, although disruptive does make business sense. She works in quite an exclusive Yoga and Pilates Studio, and Sydney being an expensive city to live, work and play, most people want to practice either before or after their working day. This means she is doomed to work early in the morning to catch those early risers that love to start the day with some soul fulfilling exercise or practice, she then has a long break, then it’s back to work to catch those that want to eliminate the stresses of their working day. If I ran a similar establishment I would probably operate similar working routines.
We met at her workplace and went to Circular Quay, where the ferries operate from. Found our ferry got on and in about twenty minutes we were docking at Watsons Bay. At the end of the quay, as you arrive, there is a fish and chips shop called Doyle’s which I must admit to being a little disappointed as I had heard great things about Doyle’s in Watsons Bay. We were both starving at this point, Ashleigh because of being at work so early and me because I never really eat breakfast, I know it’s not a great habit but it seems okay for me. We went into the ‘chippy’ and got a table, some drinks (fizzy water and coffee, not in the same cup) and I went to order food at the shoreside of the establishment, I’m reluctant to use the term restaurant as it seems to be a self service place like a motorway service station but with million dollar views. As I queued for the food I looked around and about fifty metres away was Doyle’s the restaurant, with a seafront aspect and tables and customers well dressed and obviously enjoying world class cuisine. Never mind, the fish and chips were as good as I had ever experienced and if you know how much my Mum likes fish and chips you’ll appreciate I’m pretty experienced. For Mum, it was as good as the fish and chips we had in North Wales.
The weather was scorching hot, so after we ate, we applied factor 50 sun screen so we could tan without burning. There are only two occasions I have not worn sunscreen out in the sun and both times I have burnt. One of these times I sat for an hour in the garden where I’m staying to write a blog and burnt, I went very red and as I was sitting in an unhealthy slouch my fat rolls created white bits. I now look like I’ve had a six pack painted on so it’s not all bad…
Ashleigh and I both have an innate curiosity to explore so we set off to just walk around Watsons Bay following the shoreline wherever possible. As we walked past the restaurant we came across houses that faced and opened up onto the beach. They were beautiful and as we looked out into the bay we could see yachts moored and guessed they came with the houses. We then left the beach and walked through a couple of streets where the occupants of these magnificent houses were the only ones with access to that particular area of beach, this place was called Camp Cove and if I had the money I would live here. It seemed so idyllic, what was funny though was the beach side houses were magnificent and splendid and the other side of the road the houses were, shall I just say, not quite as magnificent and splendid. Probably still cost millions though.
We then happened across a footpath that wound its way up to a point in the bay, so we followed it walking slowly, as that is all I can manage at the moment. The footpath took us past beautiful vista after beautiful vista. There was a professional photo shoot going on in one place, I decided not to photo bomb that. As we walked further along the path we came across a military camp and opposite the camp was access to a kind of private beach area called Lady Bay beach. We casually glanced down, as you do, and noticed that it was a nudist beach, full of men I might add, not the hunky film star types that adorn Bondi, middle aged and older, saggy types that’d make me look good, maybe not nude though…
We had a discussion about the beach, I was insistent that it was a gay beach but Ashleigh thought I was being too descriptive and it was just a nudist beach. She then told me that she would go there the next day as she had a day off and she loves a bit of nude sunbathing to work out her tan lines. I’ve never been nude sunbathing so this can’t be a ‘genetic’ thing. Come to think of it I’ve never even been skinny dipping. I actually don’t feel I missed out on anything so I doubt I’ll start now. Stick with this blog to the end and Ill recount, in my own words, the tale of Ashleigh’s nude sunbathing, yes she did go there the next day.
We continued to walk until we reached the point of the bay and were rewarded with a beautiful lighthouse. We then took a casual stroll back in paradisiacal settings back to the ferry. They say, ‘timing is all’ and the ferry had just pulled up as we got there. It was a lovely journey back to circular quay and we passed Vaucluse where we spent New Year’s Eve, it was lovely to see a different aspect to where we had such a wonderful experience.
So, Ashleigh’s nudist beach story. I’ll try to recount this as she told it to me but to be honest I was laughing too much to take in all of the detail. She went there as planned, as she approached the beach she had to navigate the stairs leading down to the secluded beach area. On the stairs she passed a guy who was on the way up, I think they exchanged pleasantries like “hi” or something. There are quite a few steps leading down to the beach and further down she noticed the guy had turned back and was heading for the beach again. I love that Ashleigh is a confident woman who can challenge with the best of them, she turned and asked the guy if he was following her, “only, you were heading away from the beach and now you’re heading back after passing me”. “not at all” or a similar response came back. So once on the beach she set out her towel, lay down and drifted off in the heat of the sun. On one of those moments when you come back to consciousness and full awareness, she looked up and right in front of her was this guy, standing right in front of her, at the foot of her towel. This guy was hung, and I’m not talking in capital punishment terms if you know what I mean, Ashleigh said it was the biggest she had ever seen. Speaking as her Dad, I think she probably hasn’t actually ever seen one before, who am I kidding, she’s probably seen enough to make a qualifying statement. This guy started looking left and right, as if he needed to be at that particular spot at that particular time in order to see what it was he was looking for. Truth is, he did but it wasn’t left or right of him…
He moved away and Ashleigh took a refreshing dip in the sea. She went back to her towel and noticed the guy had moved to the rocks immediately behind her. She went back to catching the rays and the next time she looked up this guy was playing with himself in her direction, now that might be the expected kind of behaviour on a nudist beach, I have no idea but Ashleigh wasn’t having any of it so she chased the guy from the beach. When she recounted the story to me I was left with the thought of those days when we would use a broom handle as a make do horse and gallop around. This guy, galloping away from my brave daughter with his broom handle amidst the laughter of everyone else on the beach. I guess this has just reinforced that I don’t need to do nudist beaches, I wouldn’t mind walking around at home naked, although I guess my housemate might not think it to be conducive to harmonious house relations. I think we are not as European as we would like to think we are. I’m actually embarrassed about nudity in public and I have the body of a god with plenty to be proud of… NOT.
So, I was originally going to be in Australia for 6 months, fly out to Chicago on the 1st May, meet Andy on the 3rd and start riding Route 66 on the 5th May. Only that last bit of that survived from the planning stages of this trip. Ahh, the planning stages… Fill your mind with thoughts of a team of researchers, each with highly developed specialisms, pitching in to ensure this trip ran smoothly… Well, it was nothing like that!
Most of the original planning came about by ’sounding like a good idea’, then I started to look into the logistics of making the trip happen. One part I haven’t covered is how Route 66 came about.
Andy had just come out of a relationship and was feeling pretty low. I had certainly seen him in better spirits anyway. Break ups are never easy and almost always painful, in general, not great things to go through. I heard it said once that you never really know a person until you break up with them. I’m not so sure about that but I guess that saying arises from the vitriol that can erupt during the most painful stages of a breakup. Andy was feeling the pain.
We arranged to spend a weekend catching up and just making sense of things so Andy came up to my place and we did exactly that. On the Sunday, Andy and I were talking about my impending trip and my very loose plans of what I intended to do once in the USA. The two routes I definitely wanted to do were Route 1 and Route 66. Route 1 is the pacific Highway running up the West coast of the states and is well revered for the scenery encountered by travellers that undertake this route.
Route 66, known as the “Mainstreet of America” or “Mother Road”, is 2400 miles long from Chicago to Los Angeles, crosses three time zones and 8 States: Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California. Route 66 has been the path of migrants, dreamers, desperadoes and an entire generation of vacationers discovering the way west.
The 1950’s were the Route 66 glory days, when thousands of cars rode bumper to bumper behind each other to experience the Western frontier. Hotels, motels, gas stations, classic restaurants, and the “New” America sprang up everywhere. Much of Route 66’s classic roads, restaurants, gas stations, and nostalgic landmarks are preserved just as they were in the 1950’s. The famous and nostalgic Route 66 is the road created in heaven for motorcycle touring.
Andy is also a motorcycle rider with a healthy sense of adventure and appetite for risk and was genuinely interested in hearing about the trip. Then, out of the blue, he said, “I’ll do Route 66 with you”, “let’s do it” he said. We then set about looking at the logistics and both agreed that if you’re going to ride perhaps the most famous route in the world, steeped in legendary status, the only make of motorcycle acceptable for such a trip was a Harley Davidson. We fired up our imagination and laptops and set about planning in finer detail. A couple of hours later we were booked in with a group called Eagle Rider. Andy had hired an Electra Glide and I had hired a Softail Heritage, both Harley Davidson classics. We had paid our deposits and were all set. We just had to wait the best part of a year for this dream trip to be realised. It seems so long ago now.
This meant that my original trip was to alter somewhat, although I was always going to the USA, I was shipping my bike over and was going to ride that. After careful adjustment my final plan was; fly to Sydney Australia and spend Christmas with Ash, shipping my bike to Australia in the meantime. My bike was due to arrive around the 20th December. After Christmas I would set off up the East coast, experiencing some of the many beautiful places Australia has to offer. I was certainly looking forward to diving the Great Barrier Reef. I would then work my way back down the coast returning to Sydney to spend some more time with my daughter Ash before setting off to the USA. This was to start to change before I reached Australia but more about that later.
I had booked to fly from Sydney to Chicago on 1st May 2016.
I would arrange accommodation and meet Andy there on the 3rd. Pretty much as I covered in the beginning of this episode. I stated in an earlier blog that, ’no plan survives first contact’, it’s a military saying meaning that plans should be sufficiently flexible, or the planner should, to allow for unforeseen changes.
I experienced many unforeseen changes which tested my flexibility to its utmost. My bike was late, the police didn’t understand their own registration laws, my injury was hampering my mobility, I ran out of drugs (prescription), Sydney was expensive. Actually, I researched that Sydney is the 5th most expensive city in the world. It is an amazing city and well worth a visit. I also understand why Australians regularly report higher levels of happiness than us in the UK.
I guess the biggest problem I was encountering was that of my limited mobility. This was a new experience for me as I am usually a confident, fit, active, adventurous guy. I think my levels of confidence come from my knowledge that I can cope with a lot of issues, and luckily for me, a lot of issues simultaneously. This is almost definitely a kick back from my Fire Service days and managing large complex incidents. I have to admit though, this was difficult for me. Walking was painful and I struggled to walk more than a couple of hundred meters at a time. I tried to ‘grin and bear it’ but I found it affected both my confidence and enjoyment. I mentioned previously that the drugs I was on also made me feel disoriented and dizzy which wasn’t nice.
I had tried to get my back sorted out before this trip but it didn’t work out. Hindsight would tell me to have not come on the trip and to have had the operation to fix my back (hindsight and just about everyone else…). The hospital contacted me with a date for the operation I knew it was the best thing for me. It meant cutting the Australian part of my trip short but the lure of a life without back pain was far too great to ignore. With the help of my housemate a date was fixed and I promptly returned to the UK.
My operation was booked for the 22nd February 2016 but was delayed for some unknown reason (Drs strike perhaps?). I then developed an infected cyst on my hip. As soon as I noticed this, I went to the doctors. I was administered antibiotics and started the course immediately, doubling up the dosage for the fist two days so I could clear this up quickly and my operation could go ahead as planned. Well, the cyst doubled in size every day and got angrier and angrier. I went back to the doctors and was admitted to hospital. Once in hospital I was examined and informed that I needed the cyst to be surgically removed. This was a real bummer as It might lead to a further delay in my planned back operation.
I had already cut my trip short, which had increased the costs of my finely budgeted trip and ruined my plans. I wasn’t about to miss out on Route 66. There was a definite timetable in my head at this time and I was adamant that I was going to stick to it. A further delay of my back operation just wasn’t going to happen. I had thought up a timetable working backwards from the start of Route 66. Route 66 starts in May. I need about twelve weeks to recover from my operation, with good discipline and no complications I could possibly recover enough in ten weeks. That meant my operation could take place between 9th April to 23rd April at the very latest. When I was at work I developed some useful negotiating techniques. I negotiated with Unions, managers, politicians and even ministers. This was going to be easy…
I though I’d share the conversation that then occurred, the parts in brackets are thoughts);
Dr, “We’re going to admit you for an operation blah blah blah…”
Me, “Really? But I have planned to ride Route 66 in May and I need my back operation to take place in February so I’ll be fit in time for the ride”.
Dr, “The operation (cyst) will take place in the next couple of days and has about a four week healing time”.
Me “That cuts it too fine for recovery”, “is there anyway we can get this done right away?”
Dr, “Do you mean under a local anaesthetic?”
Me, “Yes if that is quicker”.
Dr, “Your cyst is too big and really quite infected, we don’t deal with that under a local”.
Me, “Why?” “Surely as a customer I have the right to choose”.
Dr, “Well, yes you do but this procedure is too painful to be carried out under a local as your cyst is quite large and infected”’
Me, “But I can have it done under a local and get home?” (I can get home, stick a plaster on it, heal, have my operation on my back and BOOM, Route 66 baby)
Dr, “Yes but It is a very painful procedure and it really isn’t recommended”,
Me, “Oh, don’t worry about the pain, I’m really good with pain”, (I am a Zen master, I am at one with the universe, I am Granite…).
Dr, “Well Mr Enness”
Me, “Please, call me Chris”’
Dr, “Chris, I recommend that you be admitted and have the operation under a general anaesthetic” (she’s thinking, he’s a cocky little shit and I’ve heard it all before).
Me, “Yeah thanks but I can take the pain, nooo problemo so I’m opting for the local. Can you do it now? ” (ooh this is going so well, I’ll be training in two days).
Dr, “I really think you should think about this, it is going to be very, very painful” (I think he’s making a mistake).
Me, “yep, thought about it, let’s crack on” (I love getting my way, what do they know anyway… I’ll probably not even feel it…).
Dr, “Well Chris, I’m going to give you ten minutes to think about it, in the meantime I’ll get all the equipment together but I think you should reconsider”.
Me, “if it’s just a pain thing it honestly wont be a problem” (I’m superman) “but if you don’t want to do it then we can discuss this further if you like?”.
Dr, “I’m happy doing the procedure…”
Me cutting across her, “great, let’s crack on”.
I’m feeling pretty cool at this stage, after all, I helped the Dr see the light and the error of her ways, fancy not realising how tough I am. The Dr disappeared, gathered her equipment and retuned after about thirty minutes. I spent that time convincing myself I was as tough as I had just tried to portray (unsuccessfully as it turned out).
When the Dr returned I asked her what the procedure entailed and if she would tell me what actions she was about to take just prior to taking them. We had an agreed way forward, what could possibly go wrong? Mr lucky is back in the driving seat…
I mentioned about the last time I had a local anaesthetic for a procedure (vasectomy) and the anaesthetic didn’t take effect. When the Dr cut my tube I hit the roof, man that was painful. I mentioned this so she would be encouraged to add a little more anaesthetic so there would be no repeat of that rather painful experience. She was to inject around the cyst then into the cyst itself.
The injections around the cyst hurt, a lot. The injection into the cyst was absolute torture. I swore out loud, gripped my pillow and thought, I’m meant to be good with pain, what happened there? We then had to wait a few minutes for the anaesthetic to take effect. This was tested by the Dr poking something sharp into the cyst. I hit the roof again, the anaesthetic had not taken effect. So we went through all the injections again, equally as painful. This time the anaesthetic took effect and we could start the procedure proper. I felt discomfort but not any real pain, this was what I thought it would all feel like. Then all of a sudden I felt the scraping into my side was so painful. I screamed like a right wimp, once composed I asked why I was suddenly feeling so much pain. “oh, that’s because the infection went deeper than we thought so the anaesthetic won’t have affected this deep”. Oh it’s a we now is it? I thought in between gripping my pillow and almost crying with pain.
It was finished after what felt like an eternity, the Dr applied a dressing, cleared up and left the room to get me some painkillers. I stood up and went into shock. The pain was so unexpected, I was mentally unprepared for it. I was shaking and very unstable. I got my painkillers and part hobbled, part shuffled to the exit where my housemate was waiting to pick me up. I couldn’t speak and it was a quiet drive home.
The way these wounds are encouraged to heal is from the inside out. Basically, after the cyst was cut out I was left with a hole in my hip. The way to dress the wound was to pack the hole with sterile dressing and place a dressing over the whole area. Let’s return to the ‘pack the hole’ part. To do this, one should take a poking implement, some dressing and just poke away at my very painful hole left by the cutting away. This hurt, a lot. Did I mention that I was good with pain? I don’t know what I was thinking but I must have thought I was someone else. My recommendation for anyone who has to go through this is to definitely have a general anaesthetic. Don’t be stupid enough to think you can handle the pain. Only an imbecile would think that…
I had to see the consultant regarding my back due to having both an infection and an open wound to reschedule my operation, at this point I am hoping that the pain I went through would pay off and my operation would still go ahead in time to recover for Route 66. Bad news came hard. It was to be delayed until May. This was no good for me as there would be no chance of recovering in time for Route 66. I couldn’t negotiate my way out of this one, to be honest, after the last time I didn’t want to. We agreed that I would have the operation after my return from the USA.
I was pretty upset, well, actually very upset. It appeared I had returned from Australia for nothing, gone through the pain for nothing and incurred tons of expense, all for nothing. This was hard for me to take. On top of all that I still had back pain and sciatica as my constant companions. I felt down, very down and retreated into my little cave, tried not to communicate to many people and just get through the next few months.
The next couple of months passed and I concentrated on strengthening my core in readiness for riding a bike all day, every day for some 2400 miles. As my fitness and strength improved so did my mood and I was back to my normal, confident, indestructible self in no time.
So here I am on the plane en route to Chicago writing this. Andy suggested Steak out tonight. I wonder who we’re watching and what and when we will eat…
Chicago, the city that never speaks
The flight from Heathrow was fairly pleasant, well as pleasant as long haul flights in economy class can be. We had an issue trying to book online, more accurately, I had an issue. It was with the ESTA visa waiver. I had obtained an ESTA some three years ago when I had my previous passport. Are you getting that a repeat of my visa problem when travelling to Australia was about to recur? You’d be right. In my defence, I was aware that this might be an issue so I had packed my previous passport. Different country, different rules. I couldn’t check in and was told I had to obtain a new ESTA. Luckily I applied and obtained one there and then but due to the Department of Homeland security not updating their system in time (lazy!), I had to check in at the airport. I was asked if I was worried about this whole debacle, I honestly wasn’t. I knew it would all work out. Things like that never bother me.
Andy changed seats at the airport so we could sit together during the flight, which I appreciated. To my left was a lovely man that used to live in Birmingham but had moved to Cincinnati. He had also lived in Chicago and advised us to visit Navy Pier and Willis (formally Sears) tower. He read my last blog as I was writing it and helped by pointing out the occasional mistake or by asking a question which helped me realise I hadn’t explained myself clearly. I find that when writing, I often know what I want to say but sometimes I don’t explain things clearly for the reader who might not be on the same page as me, so to speak.
We spent the flight chatting, watching movies and before we knew it the flight was almost over. Neither of us slept.
It’s always interesting passing into the USA as their border control is understandably very strict and the queues are usually long and slow moving. We got through that and decided to get a taxi to our hotel. We got into a cab and the driver had never heard of our hotel. He basically told me it didn’t exist. I checked the details and asked him to take us to the address. He then said that he’d take us but if it wasn’t there, and he thought it wouldn’t be, it was our tough luck. Even though I was tired I remained nice and polite, mainly because I trusted that it would be there. After about 20 minutes in the cab we arrived at the Holiday Jones hotel. Amazing it was there… The driver told us the he had been driving for twenty years and this was the first he had heard of the Holiday Jones hotel. He dropped us off and we checked in.
The hotel has an interesting theme to it. All the beds are bunk beds and the decor is quite contemporary. I like that term, contemporary. It basically describes anything, especially when I don’t know how to describe it… I think the owners have tried to achieve a theme of upmarket hostel, you know, to help the guests have a more luxurious hosteling experience. In actual fact, it reminds me of something out of the Elvis film Jailhouse Rock. I think they help the guests experience a slightly more luxurious prison stay. I’m probably being really unkind, actually I am being unkind, not probably! It really isn’t that bad and I would recommend it for people that are probably going to incarcerated in the future and want to prepare for it…
I guessed Andy wasn’t impressed with my choice of hotel by piecing together his feelings through comments like, ‘this is shit’. He did take the top bunk though as neither of us wanted that. I guess we could have gone the whole hog for the prison experience and shared the bottom bunk which was a double, but neither of us really fancied that option. The bed reminded me of the bed I bought Ashleigh when she was ten.
Once checked in, we didn’t bother to unpack as there were no wardrobes or drawers, we headed into town.
Chicago is the third most populous city in the USA with a population of 2.7 million residents and receives up to 10.5 million visitors every year. We walked around a bit then headed downtown. (Downtown! Where is that? What does that actually mean? What is the difference between downtown and uptown?). The first thing that struck us were how rude people were. There was a definite attitude being displayed here. At times, when we asked for directions from station staff we were ignored. Unbelievable! We discussed this and came to the conclusion that Chicago must be a heavily unionised city which had a history grown from organised crime and as such if it wasn’t in peoples’ job description to talk to you then they wouldn’t. We also felt large parts of the city was a bit dismal. All in all, if it wasn’t for the fact that Route 66 starts here in Chicago then we wouldn’t advise coming here. If New York has the earned title of the ‘City that never sleeps’, then Chicago has, in my opinion, earned the title the ‘City that never speaks’.
On day two we went to Navy Pier but most of it was closed. We were ignored there too! We then went to meet the rest of the group that we would be riding Route 66 with. This was an icebreaking meal arranged by Eagle Riders to allow people to meet each other, meet the tour leader and discuss the itinerary. When we got to the hotel but there wasn’t anybody there apart from another British couple, Andy and Helen. We looked around and asked the hotel staff but no information was forthcoming. We were pretty disappointed with the organisation and felt that this was an auspicious start to the trip. We rang the tour leader and he explained, very politely that the meeting was planned for the next day! What a pair of idiots we were, who says I don’t do detail… We took some solace from the fact that we weren’t the only ones! We had a few beers with Andy and Helen who seem very nice then headed off to the Hard Rock cafe for some ribs (as opposed to ribbing!) and a couple of Hurricanes. After a couple of beers and a couple of Hurricanes I felt quite drunk so we headed back to the cell.
We are looking forward to meeting everyone tonight!
Farms and Churches
Sat 07-May -2016. Day 3: Springfield, IL – St. Louis, MO ~ 125 miles
Today we headed towards St. Louis. We stayed primarily on the 2-lane sections of the Mother Road, traversing cornfields and small towns that represent the heartland of America.
What was really interesting to see was how the combination of church and farming dominate mid west America. We rolled through towns that, although modernised, you could see how they would have formed back in the day. Big, wide main streets and all the roads were straight. On the outskirts of practically every town were huge agricultural plants and in the centre were one or two churches. It was easy to see how the money came in and where it went!
We stopped off for a coffee in Carlinville, Illinois, at a lovely place called the Refugee coffee house. Andy, Pete and I had coffee and cake. Pete is a lovely German guy that we get along well with. It was lovely and the staff were very friendly. In fact, every place we’ve visited we have been made to feel really welcome. I always think the Americans do customer service so much better than the Brits. Sure, I realise that custom, income and tips etc depend on their attitude but I still think we have a lot to learn back home.
Our next stop was at Henry’s Rabbit Ranch. At first I was a little bewildered by the number of Volkswagen (VW) Golf cars that were littered around the place (nothing was mentioned about emission testing). But it turns out that the VW Golf was called the rabbit in the states so Henry has literally littered the place with VW Golfs of all ages and condition. Apparently it was in response to the Cadillac ranch further along the route. We stopped for a few photos, some water and a look around.
What I like about riding the route is that I’m getting to see a different side of America. I realise that establishments along Route 66 will be designed deliberately touristy and will be in the business to sell memorabilia, but the rest of the route certainly takes you through a different part of America, one that I only really see in the movies. Riding a Harley through town after town does feel a little special.
We stopped off for lunch at a really cool diner where they had Wifi, which was a bonus. I decided on a salad as it is too easy to eat and drink too much so a little discipline is needed (I can just hear the comments now…).
Today the milage was very gentle, which was just as well as I think we were all tired. That said, I felt that the group was gelling better and the discipline of riding in a group had improved quite a bit from yesterday.
Motorcycling is primarily a solo activity, certainly for me anyway. For many, riding as a group – whether with friends on a Sunday morning ride or with an organised group can be the epitome of their motorcycling experience.
Eagle rider have this down to a fine art and we have been split into two groups, red and Blue. We are in Red group. Each group is separated by about thirty minutes and has a Eagle Rider tour leader and a support van. Red groups tour leader is Michael and in the support van is Vance. Two lovely guys, knowledgable and very helpful.
Michael will generally hold a riders’ meeting at the start and finish of each day to discuss things like the route, rest and fuel stops and anticipated milage. Splitting into two groups keeps the us tourists to a manageable size, there are 12 or so in each group.
Riding in formation is new to some of us. The staggered riding formation allows a proper space cushion between motorcycles so that each rider has enough time and space to manoeuvre and to react to hazards. The leader rides in the left third of the lane, while the next rider stays at least one second behind in the right third of the lane; the rest of the group follows the same pattern.
We try to avoid side-by-side formations, as they reduce the space cushion. If you suddenly needed to swerve to avoid a hazard, you would not have room to do so.
It sounds easy doesn’t it? It isn’t. Some people feel comfortable with a larger gap, some like to ride in the middle of the carriageway thus nullifying the reason for riding in formation. But by far the funniest thing is those that want to ride behind the tour leader. It can be pretty cut throat up there. I prefer riding at the back away from any hassle. I was asked by a friend today which I preferred, riding as part of a group or riding solo. After all, I have done so much solo riding.
Riding in a group, roaring into town on Harleys is definitely cool. I’m not sure the UK is the right country for groups of Harleys. I wouldn’t want to ride them in bad or inclement weather, also, our roads ar far more narrow than those over here. Group dynamics will play a huge part also. I don’t really care for the whole macho, alpha male thing. To be honest it irritates me. I don’t appreciate the need to make yourself look or sound funny at someone else’s expense. I guess I’ve experienced far too much of it. Then there is the issue of getting lost or things not going to plan. I’m lucky to have a bigger than normal comfort zone and as such can cope with almost anything life throws at me. When riding solo I don’t need to worry about agreements, stress, or appeasing anyone else which in turn leaves my brain open to experience more at my own pace. That said, experiencing great moments are better shared. So I guess my answer is; it really depends on the company.
Our arrival into St. Louis was via the Chain of Rocks Bridge, the original bridge where Route 66 crossed the Mississippi River. We enjoyed the short ride today into the ‘Gateway to the West,’ St. Louis. St. Louis rests along the shores of the mighty Mississippi River and is home to some of the best live music and BBQ ribs in the country (their words not mine).
I’m writing this in the laundry as I’ve run out of clean clothes. After my work detail, we will pop out for some food and possible some refreshments. It is Saturday night in St. Louis so, when in Rome…
Sun 08-May -2016/Day 4: St. Louis, MO – Joplin, MO ~ 335 mi
I think it must be impossible to have a bad day when riding across the USA on a Harley Davidson Heritage Softail, or so I thought.
We woke up fairly early as we had an 08.15 briefing for the day ahead. We knew it would be a long one with the longest milages of the trip. The view from the hotel window was great, we could see the St Louis Arch with the top covered in mist. It’s probably the only thing I didn’t take a photo of today. We had our brief, we were expecting rain today and we set off shortly after 0830.
It wasn’t long before we hit the freeway, in fact most of the miles we covered today were on the freeway, I say freeway but it was an interstate, I use them interchangeably out of ignorance. Whatever the correct term is, it is the same as motorway riding and that is pretty boring. There wasn’t much choice as the distance to be covered today was too great to do any other way. Whilst riding in a group on the motorway there isn’t really a lot to do but ride according to the conditions of the road. You can of course, overtake cars and lorries (trucks over here) dangerously, which some of us took the opportunity to do. I think some of us take riding in formation too literally and probably wouldn’t make the same manoeuvres when riding alone. As I said before, riding in a group isn’t easy. Anyway, at the first stop Vance, the support van driver and all round cool dude, told us off for some of our road craft, or lack of, more to the point. It was done nicely between Vance and Mike in a kind of a good cop/bad cop routine. I missed the good cop bit though… With the lesson passed on we set off again, this time the group rode better thanks to the earlier coaching.
Once off the motorway (I’ll call them that for ease of reference, clearly for you readers…), Route 66 is nice and winding, with lovely rolling parts which really are a pleasure to ride. Officially Route 66 is decommissioned and has been replaced by hundreds of other roads. There are parts of the original Route 66 still available to travel on and it is more of a tourist attraction these days, loaded with attractions along the route, celebrating the road, driving or riding and rock n roll. The first attraction we attended today was at Fanning, The Worlds Largest Rocking Chair. From there we made our way to Devils Elbow for a Bar B Q lunch. It was so tasty, also the portion size was huge and really unhealthy. I ate it all though…
In the afternoon there was more motorway and we eventually arrived at a place called Red Oak II. Red Oak II was actually the brainchild of artist Lowell Davis who grew up in the “real” Red Oak, Missouri, about 18 miles northwest of the “new” Red Oak II. The original Red Oak, like many other rural agricultural towns across the country, started to fade sometime after World War II, when people began to move to the cities.
After Davis had left the area for a number of years, he returned in the 1970’s to find his home town had become a ghost town.
In 1987, Davis was living on a farm near Carthage that was little more than an empty cornfield. His creative inspiration soon led him to turn his acreage into a tribute to his home town and before long Red Oak II was born. He began to buy homes and businesses from the original townsite and other rural ghost towns, painstakingly moving them to the new site and restoring them to their original state. This really was a lovely place and it felt like we were transported back in time.
We then were on the homeward stretch and spent even more time on the motorway. We were tired as a group and Mike was having some serious problems with his sat nav. So much so, that quite often, well, far to often anyway, we needed to change direction and lanes too quickly. For a large group this isn’t a safe thing to do as nobody wants to be the one who misses the turning and gets lost. Or worse, ruins the time for the rest of the group. We also got lost a few times during the day. All in all, by the time we arrived in Joplin and checked in, showered etc, the restaurants were closed so Andy and I didn’t get to eat. We managed to find a bar and had a couple of G & Ts ,well I did, Andy is a Jack Daniels man. Apparently, Joplin was hit pretty hard by a tornado in 2011 but we didn’t get to see it so I can only read about it. The bum moment of the day for me was realising that I had lost the bike keys, probably in Red Oak II. The key isn’t needed once the bike has been turned on so I kept it in my pocket. I’m guessing that me using my phone for photos and the in and out activity of the phone in my pocket caused me to let the keys slip out. My bike is now permanently switched on. I know, you really don’t have to say it…
Mon 09-May-2016/Day 5: Joplin, MO – Oklahoma City, OK ~ 255 mi
Today was all supposed to be about the ride! From Joplin we headed west through the rolling hills and horse country that is Oklahoma, passing through the towns of Miami (not the one made famous by Miami vice, or indeed the excellent Will Smith rendition of ‘Take me to Miami), Claremore and Catoosa, where the legendary Blue Whale resides, Well, all the literature spoke about this legendary Blue Whale that was built for a woman through an act of love by her man. Andy and Peter went to sleep on a bench and I found a quiet corner and did a mini yoga session. Folks if you’re planning on doing Route 66, give the Blue Whale a miss.
After stopping for lunch in a Tulsa diner, we passed through the lands of several Native American tribes. In the 1830’s all this land, said to be useless by the US Federal Government, was set aside as Indian Territory, a convenient dumping ground for the tribes that “blocked” white settlement in the southern states. The Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole, Creek and Cherokee are some of the tribes that make up the state’s large Native American Indian population.
We had more incidents of getting lost, stopping on the hard shoulder and switching lanes far too quickly. In towns we would stop in the road whilst Mike consulted the sat nav gods. Some of the manoeuvres that these issues were causing the group to undertake were really quite dangerous. When the group stopped for fuel there were quite a few that were talking amongst themselves, expressing their displeasure. Unbeknown to me there was an agreement to chat with Mike at the end of the day.
Route 66 passes through Kansas, where there’s no place like home (see what I did there?). So we stopped at a sign that said Kansas… This was probably not the highlight of the trip… What was better was a visit to the vintage Iron Motorcycle museum. It had a number of vintage motorcycles (funny that) but it was lovely to see. There was also a shrine to Evel Knievel the motorcycle stunt superstar (back in the day).
Next up was the Harley Davidson superstore where I tried to get a replacement key, to no avail. Lovely bikes and apparel though. I do believe that Harleys suit the USA better than the UK and they are very cool bikes. I don’t think I would swap my KTM for one though.
The last leg was to get to Oklahoma city where we would be staying for the night. Everyone was tired and a lot of the group were not really enjoying all the messing about with the lane switching, stopping and so on. We were supposed to be travelling along an old part of Route 66 but we were heading into tornados so Mike made the executive decision to head to Oklahoma city via the motorway. This was possibly the worst of all the messing around and as we got close to the city it became worse.
I was tired and not enjoying the riding, it felt haphazard at best. Riding discipline amongst the group was also affected, not unsurprisingly really. We were passing through a very busy part of the ring road surrounding the city centre, there were road works and it was busy, There were cars and trucks everywhere. It was impossible for the group to remain as a tight unit and we were split up all trying to follow our leader. Losing sight of him and other group members, it was simply, chaotic. We suddenly had to exit to the left, I saw that the riders in front of me had made a quick, unexpected right turn to an exit lane. I indicated and swerved into to the right exit lane. Then I saw it, an eighteen wheel truck on top of me, I was going under it, FUCK. The driver had enough room to swerve and missed me by inches. He didn’t even swear at me as I think he thought I was going under him. I’m normally a good rider but I certainly wasn’t then. We got to the hotel within a couple of minutes. I was shaken up. I was also ashamed of the poor riding I had just undertaken. When we stopped, Vance came running over to see if I was alright. I told him it was completely my fault. He was lovely and just wanted to know I was okay. I was shaken though.
We normally have a beer and a debrief at the end of each day and today was no different but it was going to be. After Mike had said his piece, he asked, “are there any questions?”. That was the signal for the Andy’s in the group to challenge Mike on the sat nav issues and the messing around. I heard it all but was numb from my experience minute earlier.
I was feeling nervous about tomorrow though.
Back in the saddle
Tue 10-May-2016/Day 6: Oklahoma City, OK – Amarillo, TX ~ 266 mi
I awoke feeling generally better, I believe I am a resilient person and can bounce back from pretty much anything after an appropriate period of time (maybe not an 18 wheeler though…).
I decided to ride conservatively today, this meant being in the middle of the group and ensuring I had the time to react to any sudden changes. I wanted to take the opportunity to practice my observation and road craft whilst riding. This would do me the world of good and get my riding back to being as smooth and efficient as I wanted it to be. I was left with the mixture of feeling between anger and disappointment with myself for doing something stupid. I have always thought that no one can ever be harder on me than I am myself. My plan today was just to practice good riding.
We got up, rushed breakfast and was ready for our morning, pre ride briefing at 0800. I was particularly interested in how Mike would react to yesterdays debriefing. I found Mike’s reaction interesting, it appeared to be a mix of acknowledgement and defensiveness. He majored on how important it was to keep to time and that he was going to hurry people along more, I felt that he had missed the point. He also assumed a slightly patronising tone when he spoke to us. Not knowing Mike well enough I just put this down to his interpersonal style. The acknowledgement came by him sorting out the sat nav issues.
This morning we travelled along some of the oldest stretches of Oklahoma’s Route 66. Once the land of vast buffalo herds, this section of 66 traverses some of the great cattle trails which were used in the 1860s to drive herds of cattle from Texas up to the railhead in Abilene, Kansas. A lot of the riding was again on motorway type roads, which wasn’t really what any of us wanted but I guess a necessary evil. The riding however was vastly improved, it felt that the group were getting the hang of it. From a personal perspective I was getting my groove back.
We will rode along a section of the Chisholm Trial, which passes through Yukon and El Reno, and stopped at the amazing Route 66 Museum in Clinton. There are various Route 66 museums along the mother road, some better than others. So many places appear to sell the same memorabilia, some good stuff and some tacky stuff. This museum was a good one though. The mood of the group appeared to be improving along with the riding. We stopped, looked around and took some photos.
After lunch we crossed the border into the Texas Panhandle, the southernmost portion of the Great Plains. Texas is huge, you can easily fit the whole of the British Isles inside the borders of Texas. It is also hot. By now most of the had already stripped down to riding in just tee shirts and Jeans which I hadn’t done yet. I’m too nervous of the implications of falling off. I did a little riding in shirt sleeves but only for a couple of miles. I then put all my clobber back on and put up with the heat. Hot, but safe.
The motorway ride to the Hotel in Amarillo was perhaps the best so far, probably because we were late and we rode at a constant, fast pace. We experienced no issues with the traffic because we rode the way bikes are made for. Cutting through the traffic and using the acceleration of the bike when required. The group enjoyed that.
Tonight the plan was to go to “The Big Western Steakhouse’ being picked up by stretch limos with Texas longhorns on the bonnets (soooo Texas). We were to experience the best steaks in Texas, I was expecting that the whole Texas Steak experience which had been arranged by Eagle Rider would be included in the cost of the trip. It was certainly being spoken about most enthusiastically by the Eagle Rider staff.
The Steakhouse was actually very cool and the stake was lovely. It wasn’t included in the price and the Limos were organised by the Steakhouse. I raise this because what is becoming apparent is the kick backs to Eagle Rider from the establishments we visit. I suppose I should have realised this as that’s the way businesses grease each others wheels. It makes sense why we visit where we do.
Wed 11-May-16/Day 7: Amarillo, TX – Santa Fe, NM 303 mi
This definitely was a day of two halves. The group were tired and the mood appeared somewhat depressed. This was made far worse when one of the bikes wouldn’t start. Vance normally towed a spare motorcycle on a trailer but that was required a couple of days ago when one of the bikes broke down. Now a second bike had broken down there was no spare for the rider and Deb, who was the proud renter of the now defunct Harley Davidson Road King, would now have to ride in the support van with Vance. With the messing around we were at least an hour setting off. It was cold and windy when we eventually set off.
We left Texas and made our way into “The Land of Enchantment”, New Mexico, after passing through the world famous Cadillac Ranch. The Cadillac Ranch is not a ranch but a public art installation and sculpture in Amarillo, Texas. It was created in 1974 by Chip Lord, Hudson Marquez and Doug Michels, who were a part of the art group Ant Farm. It consists of what were (when originally installed during 1974) either older running used or junk Cadillac automobiles, representing a number of evolutions of the car line (most notably the birth and death of the defining feature of mid twentieth century Cadillacs: the tailfins) from 1949 to 1963, half-buried nose-first in the ground, at an angle corresponding to that of the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt.
We made a couple of other stops but it was at lunch when things started to pick up. First of all, we went to a great diner and the food was amazing. It had got much warmer and some of the group had decided to dress down to shirtsleeves again. Knowing what was coming next I stayed fully armoured.
On leaving the diner we hit miles of rolling roads with gentle, sweeping bends. It was so pleasurable to ride. You really could see for miles and it was a chance too see what these bikes could really do. I hung back until the group were way out of sight and then opened up my Heritage Softail. I repeated this about three times until I was happy with what the top speed of the bike was. Then for further entertainment, some of us started racing. It sounds dangerous but it was such perfect riding conditions, you could see for miles and we were no longer in group formation, well some of us weren’t. It really was so much fun. We eventually stopped for a break and you could see the smiles on everyones faces. The mood was very buoyant indeed.
From there we entered the land the Comanche Indians, where mesas, mountains, cactus and pines define the landscape as we headed up into the High Plains and altitude of Santa Fe in central New Mexico. Santa Fe is one of America’s oldest and most beautiful cities, and was to be our base for the next two nights.
We arrived in Santa Fe around 7pm after a fantastic afternoon. Everyone was happy. Santa Fe looked great and the hotel was excellent. We had a much needed rest day the next day. I spent the day chilling, recharging and catching up with some important issues back home. A great rest day and now we are ready for tomorrow. I had totally forgotten about my near miss a few days ago.
Fri 13-May-2016/Day 9: Santa Fe, NM – Gallup, NM ~271mi
I woke up in a great mood today. I think I really needed the rest day and it was an excellent day. We got ready for our morning briefing and Mike informed us that we had an opportunity to visit JW Eaves Movie Ranch. It’s the place where they film many western films, such as, Silverado, Wyatt Earp, Jane’s goy a gun, Cowboys and many, many more. It was only a short ride away.
When we arrived we were met by Thomas Wingate, who manages the ranch. Now here was a real cowboy dude. He looked the part and sounded the part, this wasn’t a costume, this was him. He was so cool. He told us about the film set and the films that were filmed there, he also shared some great anecdotes about some of the actors that have worked there. It was so realistic and I loved the look and feel of the place.
From there we headed to Madrid, where Wild Hogs was partly filmed. Another great place to visit. We stopped at a great coffee shop, had a nice coffee, chat and a look around. The day was turning out to be great. It was hot but cool if you get my drift. The scenery was nothing short of dramatic and it really felt that we were in cowboy country. We rode the main east – west road and rail routes crossing both the Rio Grande and the old road south to Mexico. We crossed the Rio Grande and headed west, out into the open country and the hues of the Navajo wilderness. We skirted mesas and bluffs on into Laguna. The scenery was fabulous, nothing short of dramatic. There were imposing mountains, deep red cliffs, indian reservations and their diversity of settlements.
The riding was amazing too, long sweeping bends, flanked by beautiful scenery. At one stage we were riding next to a railroad and the train on it must have been a mile long! Overtime we passed one of these massive trains I tried to signal to the driver to blow their horns, some did and it brought a smile to my face.The last visit was the Continental divide, at the location of the Indian curio store. There is a natural formation, known as The Continental Divide. Continental Divide is the name of tiny Community, and a Geological feature.
According to the National Parks Web Site, the area has an elevation of 7,263 feet. The Historic marker plaques give the elevation as 7,245 feet. The Indian Trading Post at the site claims, 7,295. so its fairly safe to say the Continental Divide is at an elevation of over 7,200 feet, making it the highest point on Route 66. As it is the Highest point along the backbone of America, in New Mexico all water to the West of this location flows into the the Pacific, and to the East the water flows into the Atlantic, or the Mississippi, and the Gulf of Mexico.
We then rode further on through Grants and along Cibola National Forest towards the famous Route 66 town of Gallup – an old railroad town and Indian stronghold. This is where we are staying tonight with a host of fellow riders from around the world. It was Mike’s birthday today so we had a beer with him.
Today was an excellent day, definitely a cowboy theme. Whoever said Friday the 13th was unlucky?
Spiritualism and punctuality
Sat 14-May-2016/Day 10: Gallup, NM – Grand Canyon, AZ ~ 283 miles
Today was another huge day, full of spectacular scenery and iconic Route 66 stops. We crossed the border into Arizona and rode to Petrified Forest National Park, our first proper stop of the day. Petrified Forest National Park is a United States national park in Navajo and Apache counties in northeastern Arizona. Named for its large deposits of petrified wood,the park covers about 170 square miles, encompassing semi-desert shrub steppe as well as highly eroded and colourful badlands. Badlands are a type of dry terrain where softer sedimentary rocks and clay-rich soils have been extensively eroded by wind and water. They are characterised by steep slopes, minimal vegetation, lack of a substantial regolith, and high drainage density. They can resemble a terrain of volcanic rock. Canyons, ravines, gullies, buttes, mesas, hoodoos and other such geological forms. Badlands often have a spectacular colour display that alternates from dark black/blue coal stria to bright clays to red scoria (Wikipedia).
We had roughly an hour and fifteen minutes to ride around the park, take in the scenery and take some photos. Andy and I could have spent that long at our first stopping point. We pulled up, got off our bikes and just stared into what I can only describe as a Martian landscape. It was awe inspiring, but more than that, there felt a strange sense of power in the land that kind of drew you towards it. I would describe as a ‘spiritual moment’.
This set the tone for our visit and we went form vantage point to vantage point, each different, each equally spiritual. There was something really special about this place. We arrived at our agreed meeting place five minutes late, although Mike didn’t say anything to us, but he had said something to the rest of the group. One or two of them felt the need to make pointless comments about being a couple of minutes late which pissed me off a little. I felt that they were trying to take away the vibe that I had just experienced, I was too chilled to react, so in my most adult way I responded with a ‘whatever’. I set of riding trying to forget the comments and concentrate on what I had just experienced. After a few miles I was back to being chilled again.
Leaving Petrified Forest NP, we travelled further west to the Wigwam Hotel in Holbrook. This was a hotel of wigwam structures and although they looked great, I doubt if I would actually stay in one.
From there we rode to Winslow Arizona. This was made famous by the Eagles song, ‘Take it easy’.
“Well, I’m a standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona and such a fine sight to see It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford slowin’ down to take a look at me, Come on, baby, don’t say maybe, I gotta know if your sweet love is gonna save me. We may lose and we may win though we will never be here again so open up, I’m climbin’ in, so take it easy.” Are you singing along yet?
It was a great visit, so picturesque and had Eagles music playing on speakers in the background. We looked around, took some photos, checked out the shops and then rode to the Grand Canyon.
We were to spend our night just one mile from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon! The journey there was an interesting one. We were climbing to altitude and that meant a temperature drop as well as passing through some pretty heavy rain. We arrived at the hotel and then it was a very quick turn around to ride up to the Grand Canyon visitors centre and watch the sunset over the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
We rode up to the car park, parked the bikes and walk a very short path to the South Rim viewing area. The path was through trees and the suddenly the Grand Canyon just opened out in front of us. It was one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen. Beautiful, awesome and humbling, all at the same time. It was simply, a must see, wonder of the world. If it isn’t on your bucket list, get it on. We were dumbstruck as we took in, not just the sight but actually the feeling that a place like this brings out in you.
This was a very long day, lots of miles and an amazing day, this trip is now living up to the hype.
Sun 15-May-2016/Day 11: Grand Canyon, AZ – Laughlin, AZ ~ 256 miles
It was an early start this morning. Andy and I were up at 0600. We got our stuff together, wolfed down breakfast and met the group for an early ride to the helicopter port. Our first job was to have a helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon, I know, it’s a tough gig this Route 66 malarkey…
We had our weigh in (helicopters fly to payload/weight), followed by a safety brief. Actually, we have both been in helicopters numerous times due to training whilst in the Fire Service so the brief wasn’t anything new. After a short period of time we were on the helicopter and flying towards the Grand Canyon. The pilot played great music, we took off to ‘Fly me to the moon’ by the late, great, Frank Sinatra.
In no time we were flying over the Grand Canyon. There were four of us in the helicopter but non of us were speaking, such was the dramatic scenery we were experiencing. Arizona’s Grand Canyon is a natural formation distinguished by its layered bands of red rock and its vast scale, averaging 10 miles across and a mile deep along its 277-mile length. Much of the area is a national park. With sweeping vistas, it’s the perfect destination for hiking, camping and white-water rafting on the Colorado River.
It was an amazing way to see the Grand Canyon and I would highly recommend it if any of you get the chance. I will definitely come back here. I would like to take a river trip and possibly a hike.
From there we set off to Williams, Arizona. Williams is a city in Coconino County, Arizona, west of Flagstaff and has a population was 3,023. It’s not a big city! It lies on the route of Historic Route 66, Interstate 40, and the Southwest Chief Amtrak train route. We found it incredibly historical and tastefully touristy. We had a coffee there for a while and was about to leave when we heard about a large accident on interstate 40. We hung around for a while then set off. We got a couple of miles down the road but the traffic wasn’t moving so we headed back into town. We needed up being stranded there for a while, I can certainly think of worse places to be stranded.
After a few hours we set off.
The traffic on the interstate was at a standstill so we were effectively parked there for a while. We eventually started crawling along. After what seemed like an age we passed the accident thew we opened up the bikes and headed for Laughlin where we were staying tonight. Because of the delays we missed out part of the intended route. Mike and Vance were ace all day, keeping the group informed and generally being good guys.
Even with the delays and unfortunate alteration to the day, it was still amazing.
Mon 16-May-16/Day 12: Laughlin, AZ – Las Vegas, NV 174 mile
Today was supposed to be a quick a ride to Las Vegas with a little detour to ride through the old West Ghost Town of Oatman. Oatman is a former mining town in the Black Mountains of Mohave County, Arizona, United States. Located at an elevation of 2,710 feet (830 m), it began as a tent camp soon after two prospectors struck a $10 million gold find in 1915, though the area had been already settled for a number of years. Oatman’s population grew to more than 3,500 in the course of a year, now it is primarily a tourist attraction focussing on its Wild West heritage.Oatman was another ‘step back in time’ moment. The town has retained it’s Wild West heritage. The only difference was that the main street was tarmac… It even had donkeys wandering about. I think Oatman was the most authentic western town along Route 66 that we visited, it is certainly worth spending a few hours there.
One of the problems that yesterday’s unforeseen change of plan, due to the accident on the highway, was that we missed out on a road that is supposed to be a motorcyclists dream to ride. It’s a mountain pass around nine miles long with something like 800 bends on it. Vance suggested to Mike that we took in the road which would mean arriving later into Las Vegas. Mike agreed and left Oatman first and arranged that for us all to meet at a rest stop after all the bends, some nine miles away. He also told us to ‘ride your own ride, with slower riders being mindful not to slow the faster riders down’.
The Heritage Softail doesn’t have much road clearance underneath the footrests. This means it doesn’t lean very far before you’re scraping the rests along the floor. My KTM leans a lot and loves bends but it is a completely different bike. The Heritage Softail is built for cruising and as such doesn’t lend itself for taking bends fast. I was well aware of this after the first day riding it and spent some time practicing how far I could get the bike to lean, thus informing me what speed to take bends safely. Scrapper Sammy had asked me why I did this most mornings in the car park, I told him about the small clearance and he informed me that the footrests will move up on a hinge when the come in contact with the ground. I spent the next morning doing S turns feeling the effect of scraping the footrests and the hinging. This was great as I could lean the bike further and take bends faster (and safer of course…).
Mike set off first from Oatman, I knew I was going to push the bike to it’s limits, well more to my limits actually, which is probably nowhere near the limits of the bike. I set off ten minutes after Mike and started the climb, leaning into the bends, left and right. My footrests were scraping and I found I was still nervous in case they dug in and flipped me off. I concentrated on trying to get as low as possible without actually scraping the rests. I managed to do this most of the time but some of the bends were so tight that I had no choice but to lean and scrape. Of course I could have slowed down and not needed to lean as much but that was never in my thinking! I arrived at the top of the pass and decided to stop and take a couple of photos. I parked up and looked around, took a few photos and saw one of the Andys ride past. I carried on looking about before making my way back to the bike. I then decided to try and catch him which meant lots of footrest scraping. I couldn’t catch him, which was just as well.
We stopped at a kind of diner that featured in the film ‘Universal Soldier’ starring Jean Claude Van Damme, I think it was blown up in the film and the movie company replaced. I managed to get photos of the rest of Red Team arriving. This was a really fun ride and everyone enjoyed it. The group was definitely getting tighter and happier.
After about an hour, all of us talking about how expert we were, taking some photos and drinking some water we set off for Hoover Dam.
The ride to Hoover Dam was spectacular, passing by Lake Mead, which looked so beautiful. The scenery in this part of the USA is nothing short of spectacular, I found it hard to concentrate on the road at times such were the vistas.
Hoover Dam, once known as Boulder Dam, is a concrete arch-gravity dam in the Black Canyon of the Colorado River, on the border between the U.S. states of Nevada and Arizona. It was constructed between 1931 and 1936 during the Great Depression and was dedicated on September 30, 1935, by President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Its construction was the result of a massive effort involving thousands of workers, and cost over one hundred lives. The dam was controversially named after President Herbert Hoover.
Hoover Dam impounds Lake Mead, the largest reservoir in the United States by volume. The dam is located near Boulder City, Nevada, a municipality originally constructed for workers on the construction project, about 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas, Nevada. The dam’s generators provide power for public and private utilities in Nevada, Arizona, and California. Hoover Dam is a major tourist attraction; nearly a million people tour the dam each year. Absolutely worth a visit.
The ride to Las Vegas was only short, some 30 miles or so. We could see it from a distance as we approached many miles away. It kind of pops up from the baron wilderness that surrounds it. As you approach it, it is much like many other cities, freeway and exits to negotiate, cars and trucks doing their thing, often not seeing motorcycles, or at the very least, not really wanting to share the road with them.
At various moments during this trip it has struck me how difficult it must be for Mike to lead such a large group and for Vance to sweep up the same. On an interstate the group must be 600 metres long, all trying to stay together in formation, negotiating overtakes and being overtaken, cars and trucks cutting into the formation to exits. Heading into town the formation is much tighter as the speed is much slower but the traffic is far heavier and these are the most likely moments of the group becoming fragmented. Mike and Vance really do a pretty good job under stressful, difficult circumstances, they should be proud of themselves. Leadership being displayed by both team members, in very different ways with very different styles. From a personal point of view, I enjoy observing this aspect of the trip.
Once we entered the main areas of Las Vegas it felt as if we had entered a life-size toy town. Our hotel was Planet Hollywood, a huge casino complex. To get anywhere we had to pass through the casino floor. They also didn’t provide wifi, the reason was that they want you on the casino floor spending money. In fact, Las Vegas is designed to get you to part from as much money as you can’t afford.
Las Vegas, in Nevada’s Mojave Desert, is a resort town famed for its buzzing energy, 24-hour casinos and endless entertainment options. Its focal point is the Strip, just over 4 miles long and lined with elaborate theme hotels such as the pyramid-shaped Luxor and the Venetian, complete with Grand Canal; luxury resorts including the Bellagio, set behind iconic dancing fountains; and innumerable casinos.
Eight of us went to Hard Rock cafe, I had a few Hurricanes, got too drunk and ended up tired the next day. I did get another glass for our collection though. I’ve been collecting Hurricane glasses from various Hard Rock Cafes around the world for years).
En route back to the hotel we went to watch the fountain show at the Bellagio, it was spectacular. All in all, Las Vegas is an experience and a half. I think you need three days here to get the most from it.
Today we crossed the border into our final State on Route 66, California! One thing is for sure, today was a day like no other as we traversed the Mojave Desert which offers some of the most dramatic scenery in Southern California. The Mojave Desert is a rain-shadow, mostly high desert area, that occupies a significant portion of southeastern California and smaller parts of central California, southern Nevada, southwestern Utah and northwestern Arizona in the United States. I could imagine how hard the journey must have been for early travellers making their way across this huge expanse of desert, dotted with Joshua Trees, cactus, volcanic rock and sand!
The desert was huge, hot and the road was long and straight. It was fairly rolling and when we hit a crest we could see for the road straight ahead for miles and miles. The weather was very unpredictable today, behind us were huge, angry rainclouds and in front of us were beautiful, blue skies. It felt as if the blue skies were always just out of reach and we were going to get caught in the rain. We didn’t get caught and arrived in Victorville safely, dry and in good time. This was to be our last night on the Mother Road.
Wed 18-May-16/Day 14Victorville, CA – Los Angeles, CA 124.0 miles
Today we headed off for our final destination, the end of the road on the Santa Monica Pier. The mood of the group was buoyant, everyone feeling that the moment of successfully completing the daunting task of crossing the USA on motorcycles. To get there, however, we first got to ride the 66 miles of the Angeles Crest Highway through the mountainous terrain of Angeles National Forest. This highway is considered one of the top motorcycle rides in southern California and rises to over 2300 meters.
This was to be the last chance to push my bike as far as I could. Andy and I set off but after a few miles we separated to ride our own rides. I pushed the Heritage Softail as hard as I possible could. I tried to chase down Carsten but he was too good for me to catch. We both took the opportunity to overtake Mike whilst we were playing ‘boys with toys’. It was an amazing road to ride and everyone enjoyed it. I took a picture of the damage I had done to the footrests as a reminder to myself. Whilst stopping, one of the group got talking to a vet who was walking from New Mexico to Canada. “you can sort a lot of shit out when you’re walking” he said. We couldn’t help but feel for what he was going through. One of the group gave him a bottle of water then he set off.
Next we descended the Crest into the Los Angeles (LA) Basin and heading towards the Pacific Ocean.
I don’t know if you’ve ever driven in and around LA but it is crazy. So many cars! The freeway was jam packed and the group needed to be tight otherwise we would have split up. It would be such a shame to split up a few miles from our final destination.
Los Angeles is a sprawling Southern California city famed as the centre of the nation’s film and television industry. Not far from its iconic Hollywood sign, studios such as Paramount Pictures, Universal and Warner Brothers offer behind-the-scenes tours. On Hollywood Boulevard, TCL Chinese Theatre displays celebrities’ hand- and footprints, the Walk of Fame honours thousands of luminaries and vendors sell maps to stars’ homes.
With the help of Mike leading, Vance sweeping up, Andy at the front and Carsten at the back we managed to stay together. Well, all the way to Santa Monica pier when a couple didn’t make the pier at the same time as the rest of the group.
After nearly 2,500 miles, Route 66 comes to an end before the world-famous panel of Santa Monica Pier, the platform of the chic little town of Santa Monica, a suburb of Los Angeles on the Pacific Ocean shore. Riders always have mixed emotions as they stand at the “End of the Trail” sign on the Santa Monica Pier. There is a sense of joy and elation at having completed a journey most people only dream about, and a sense of sadness at the thought of the ride having come to an end. Some felt the feeling of an anti climax others felt elated. I’m not sure how I felt, probably pleased that my back didn’t go into any spasms throughout the journey!
Tonight we celebrated the miles we had ridden and the friends we made as we partied together for our Farewell Dinner. There was a live band called ‘Feed the kitty’, they were excellent. There were speeches, prizes and a lot of back slapping.
It was over.
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